Experiencing The Thrilling Game, Serbian-Style
Finally, I am back in Belgrade. It has not been three months since my last visit but it is great to be back for two weeks of meetings, media, visits to a film set and, of course, to catch up with friends. This weekend’s BlogOpen conference in Novi Sad should allow me to meet up with the creators of the blogs I follow regularly and to share some thoughts and experiences.
My visit started as I mean it to go on – if I can keep up with the pace, that is. Within hours of arriving, my friend Ivan Agbaba was whisking me around Belgrade bars, before we headed out of town to Pink International’s film studios for a massive party with the musically diverse combination of Željko Joksimović and DJ Bob Sinclar performing. Outside of the region, Željko is best known for presenting Eurovision, although here he is obviously well established as a singer and all-round celebrity.
It is probably only fair that I should hold up my hands and admit that, yes, I own a Joksimovićgreatest hits collection among my thousands of assorted CDs. I blindly picked it up a few years back in Banja Luka, to satisfy my habit of buying unfamiliar CDs and discovering new music. Let us agree to drop that subject now though, ok?
Anyway, back to my evening: It was rounded off with a stop at the rammed Belgrade Arena to catch Shapeshifters and Erick Morillo, before hitting Plastic Light for a nightcap. By the time my head hit the pillow, I definitely knew that I was back in Belgrade. Now I just have to survive a fortnight in this whirlwind called Serbia.
Saturday threw up an entirely different side to Serbian culture, and one that I had been anticipating for some time: my baptism into Serbian football and all the colour that goes along with it. Serbian fans are notorious worldwide for their enthusiastic and unyielding support of their teams. Of course, there have been serious incidents in the past but that is not for this piece. Enough has been written about that already. I was more excited to see a passionate crowd in full swing and to watch a great game of football.
In recent months I have been fortunate to develop a good relationship with Red Star Belgrade and they have always welcomed me to their Marakana stadium for meetings, lunches and even for a private tour of the impressive trophy room and museum. Whatever your taste in football, it is hard to dispute the respect deserved by a team with such an impressive record as Red Star Belgrade (although I know that this comment alone is likely to provoke an outpouring from some readers!). In Britain they are known for their 1991 win, of course, but they will also be permanently stitched into footballing history as opponents in the final game played before Manchester United’s devastating 1958 plane crash.
So I was glad to be invited to join club VIPs in the upper tiers for this Saturday’s game against Radnički 1923. Anyone in any way interested in that match will already know that Red Star lost their lead in the 90th minute to end the game with a one-all draw. Putting aside the performances of either team, I enjoyed the evening on many levels. Arriving at the impressive stadium, mingling with the red and white fans, avoiding the gaze of the body-armoured riot police, and then being bowled over by the roar of the fans singing, chanting and goading their opposing followers was thrilling. To see the sheer passion among these fans for their team was a spine tingling experience. The number of families with young children was also good to see, too, as I remember being taken to see my local team Brighton & Hove Albion when I was little. I was also pleased to see my friend Uroš Ćosić in the team on the day, too.
Then, a few minutes after kick-off the fireworks started, quite literally. The only time I have otherwise seen flares thrown at a football match was when Croatia played Brazil in Berlin for the 2006 World Cup. That was not anything in comparison to this night. Red flares flew from the north side, as firemen dodged and then stamped out the blazing torches in a bizarre game that veers so close to being dangerous (as has been witnessed in some horrific incidents but, again, that is not for this piece). I am always a little in awe of the choreographed displays by the crowd, too, as they create images of giant flags, symbols and team colours.
So that was my first experience of football Serbian-style. It was not the biggest game of the season, evidenced by the fairly limited attendance, but for me it was a wholly memorable experience. One that I hope to repeat soon. Hopefully next time the stadium will be crammed with supporter, although I am confident that the Red Star fans turn out in force for every game. I can feel the excitement building already.
Marcus Agar has been commissioned by Wannabe Magazine to write a series of reports. Click to read in Serbian or for an interview in English or Serbian.
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